When we first began planning this trip, Porter's one goal in Switzerland (besides visiting Janet) was the Jungfraujoch experience, with its cog railway and ride through a glacier, because he remembered it with such pleasure from 40 years ago. This week we gave up on that idea, deciding that it would be better done in colder weather. Every day has been somewhat hazy, and if you're going to spend an unreasonable amount of money to climb a mountain, the view ought to be spectacular, not merely good. If Janet ends up in grad school here, we may have another chance.
So we settled for "second best," a trip to Luzern (Lucerne) and a cog railway ride up Mt. Rigi. That was a lot less expensive, and made for a very nice day trip from Basel. (More)
What to do, now that we are back in Switzerland? Let's visit another museum! This time it was the Skulpturehalle Basel, which probably would have been more interesting if we'd seen it before going to the Louvre. It is an extensive collection of copies of famous sculptures, including the Parthenon frieze…and many we had seen as originals less than a week before. Even those were of some interest, however, as we could get a lot closer to the copy of the Winged Victory of Samothrace than to the real thing. But mostly this museum seemed to be designed for educational presentations, another great homeschooling field trip. Do you sense a recurring theme here?
As an unexpected bonus, the Skupturehalle turned out to be very near Janet's church, so we were able to see at least the meeting place of the people who mean so much to her. (More)After tearful goodbyes, we traveled with our host (who had business in Paris) on an early morning TGV back to Gare Montparnasse. Porter managed to squeeze two small suitcases, a laptop bag, and a backpack (all our luggage except for my purse and Janet's small backpack) in one of the station's medium lockers, worth every cent of the seven euros because we were then free to explore more of Paris unencumbered.
We began by crossing the street to the Montparnasse Tower. As I've mentioned before, if all you care about is the view, this is a much better choice than the Eiffel Tower. Unfortunately, the day was a little hazy. I was reminded of Japan, where warm weather was accompanied by haziness, and cold weather brought great views as compensation. (More)Today was another beautiful day. We've had so many since arriving in Europe. The week before our arrival was so cold that we brought hats, gloves, and scarves with us, and decided to rely on layers rather than heavy coats only because we were trying to travel light.
(The lady who checked us in at the Orlando airport marveled at how little luggage we were taking to Europe. Two suitcases—one small, one medium; a laptop bag; and a backpack doesn't quite seem like a small amount of luggage to me, but I guess it could have been worse. We were blessed by having convenient laundry facilities on this trip.) (More)
Awaking before the rest of the household, I slipped outside to explore the grounds in the peaceful early morning light. Just me, God, and the neighbor's cows. It was what I needed after eight days of intense tourism. We spent the morning enjoying our friends and their home. Easter Monday is a holiday in France, and most places are closed, which was fine with us! (More)
When our friends asked what our Easter traditions were, my immediate reaction was, "total exhaustion, following a glorious church service for which we had a good deal of responsibility, and into which we had put an enormous amount of time in preparation. That was the truth for many of our favorite Easters, and it left little time and less energy for other traditions. We had some, such as decorating eggs, having an Easter egg hunt (though not, as had been in my childhood, with the decorated eggs, as in Florida the real, hard-boiled eggs spoil too quickly in the often hot Easter weather), Easter baskets full of candy (jelly beans for me, SweeTart eggs, chicks, and bunnies for the girls, and chocolate for everyone; I couldn't interest anyone in marshmallow chicks). More often than not, we shared the day with friends, in not-too-energetic pursuits. As far as meals go, my family's Easter tradition was ham, and Porter doesn't care for ham, so we never really settled on anything in particular. "Easy" was a good criterion. (More)
Having slept off our Thanksgiving dinner-style museum orgy, and packed our suitcases for departure, we were ready to indulge in another museum, this time the Musée d'Orsay. The Orsay begins where the Louvre leaves off, covering more recent (but not too recent) art. You know, Rodin, van Gogh, Gauguin, Cézanne, Monet, Manet, Matisse, Homer, Renoir, and the like. Being a converted train station, this museum is not as user-friendly as the Louvre; that is, it was much easier to get stuck in the middle of a hoard of other tourists. I didn't mind so much waiting my turn to get in front of a painting, but when most of the people both ahead and behind me seemed impatiently intent only on snapping a photo with their cell phone cameras, it got rather annoying. Besides, I'm not much better with crowds than I am with heights.
Still, it was a great visit (and free with our Museum Passes). Even this much smaller museum has 'way too much to take in on one visit. Paris would be a great place for a homeschool year abroad! (More)
Ah, to wake up in Paris, and eat breakfast in the café next door! So what if croissants/bread, orange juice, and tea/coffee/hot chocolate for three cost $40? When you stay with friends rather than at a hotel, you can afford not to worry too much about the meals. It was a lovely breakfast, and the orange juice was squeezed from real oranges seconds before being brought to the table. The orange juice was part of the package, or I wouldn't have ordered it, since I'm a Florida snob who believes that the only real citrus juice is not only "not from concentrate," but hasn't been pasteurized, and that's impossible to get at a restaurant—unless the juice truly is fresh-squeezed. So this was a delightful surprise. (More)
Transition! We took the tram to the train station, where we bought drinks to go with the food we had bought yesterday to eat on our trip to Paris. Janet knew exactly what to do and guided us to the train—it helped, too, that the signs were clear and the station logically organized. "Did you notice the border control?" she asked, as we neared the train. Well, no, we hadn't, unless you counted the big sign labelled "FRANCE," and that was her point. Apparently we were technically in French territory at that point, but no one had asked for our passports, nor did they when we reached Paris. Eventually the conductor did take our tickets, but that was all. (More)
I thought our Sunday was exciting, until I read about the Daleys'!
It was Sunny on Sunday here, too, at least for the morning. Porter put our bikes on the back of the car and the skies were blue and clear as we headed out for 8:00 church. The service was glorious, with lots of great hymns—we needed to double up on the hymn board! The 8:00 service at Messiah rocks! (Though not literally.) Afterwards there's always a great breakfast, at which we fortified ourselves for our adventure. (More)
In case you'd like a professional writer's view of Basel, this article was in Pittsburgh's Post-Gazette this morning.
I'm glad she didn't find what she was expecting. "Bling" does not sound like something particularly desirable in a city.Today Janet was feeling the pressure of work to be done, and she decided we knew enough to be let out on our own for a while. So—even though our stock of German comprised little more than "zwei Tageskarten," "bitte," "danke," and of Basel Swiss German merely "greutzi" and the word for thank you, which sounds passably enough like the French "merci"—off we went.
Janet's version is here. (More)Janet's version is here.
Today we made the most of both our tram passes and our Basel Cards, the latter providing us free admission to most of the museums (Janet used her Swiss Museum Pass) and various other discounts. We began with the Kunstmuseum, which has a collection of art that is quite impressive, at least for people who have not been to the Louvre in 40 years or so. In many ways I actually liked this better than the Louvre, because it is limited enough in scope that we felt we could devote as much time as we wanted to particular pictures. You can take your own tour here. (More)We slept late this morning but otherwise showed more effects from all our walking yesterday than from jet lag. Janet gave up her bedroom to us and is sleeping on the couch, so she awoke early with her host family, but had no trouble falling back to sleep. Fortunately she was awake when the call came from the airport: Porter's suitcase had arrived and would be delivered between ten and eleven this morning if someone would be here to receive it. Janet handled the entire conversation in German, by the way.
This is what I didn't know about the Swiss yesterday at the airport: They don't deliver an item "sometime tomorrow between 8 a.m. and 8 p.m.," and when they say someone will arrive between ten and eleven, he will. In this case, right at 10:30. (More)
As I mentioned before, we recently returned from a delightful two weeks in Europe, visiting Janet in Switzerland and some friends who live in France. There were other friends we wanted to visit, but there's only so much you can do in two weeks and remain sane, so we'll just have to make a return trip.
It was nearly as perfect as such a vacation can be. We had a tense moment or two in Paris, for which I take much of the blame by not having planned the program sufficiently. It is very hard to leave the agenda open when you're trying to take into account the desires of three people, none of whom enjoys making decisions and each of whom will only be happy if the others are happy first! But we got over that, and the rest of the trip was idyllic. Much credit goes to our hosts in Switzerland and in France, and most especially to Janet. As in Japan, she was an excellent tour guide and rarely showed how worried she was that she hadn't done enough to prepare. It was enough! It was perfect! Now she can start worrying that our next trip can't possibly live up to the high standards set by this one....
As you can tell, I've been posting a lot of random stuff lately—mostly because it's much easier than buckling down to the job of editing pictures and preparing this trip journal. But here's a start, with more to follow. Be sure to check out Janet's version (this post and following), if you haven't already. And remember that the pictures are only previews that do not show the complete scene; click on the preview to get the full picture. (More)
